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1
Prepare a charcoal grill and bring it to maximum heat. Hold the palm 15 cm above the grate: if it can be held there no longer than 2 seconds, the temperature is correct. A gas grill is not an acceptable substitute; the fat char and smoke produced by charcoal are inseparable from the dish.
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2
Season both sides of each chop with sea salt at the moment they are to go on the grill — not before. Draw the rosemary sprig through the olive oil and brush both surfaces of the chops. No marinade is used at any stage; acid applied to meat this thin prevents proper charring and begins cooking the flesh before heat is applied.
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3
Lay the chops on the screaming-hot grate. This is where the dish lives or dies: cook exactly 2 minutes per side, no more. The fat edge must blister and char, the exterior must colour deeply, and the interior must remain pink at the bone. Any further cooking produces a grey, dry chop that has lost the milk-sweetness that defines abbacchio. Remove from the grill the moment the second side shows a deep char and the bone-end is hot to the touch.
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4
Squeeze lemon over the chops immediately as they leave the grill. Serve at once — picked up by the bone, eaten standing if necessary. Scottadito tolerates no waiting; the name records the obligation.