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1
Place the aburaage in a colander. Pour boiling water liberally over all surfaces. Turn, and repeat. Press lightly to expel the water. The pouches should feel noticeably less greasy and appear slightly paler — this is oil removal, and without it the finished inari will carry a heavy, unpleasant mouthfeel.
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2
Combine the dashi, soy sauce, mirin, and sugar in a saucepan wide enough to hold the aburaage in a single layer. Bring to a gentle simmer, add the aburaage, and lay a drop lid (otoshibuta) or sheet of baking paper directly on the surface. Simmer gently, turning the pouches once, until the liquid is mostly absorbed and the aburaage are deeply, evenly coloured. This is where the dish lives or dies: insufficient reduction leaves watery, flavourless pouches; the simmering liquid must be taken almost entirely into the tofu.
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3
Remove the pouches from the pan and allow to cool until handleable. Cut one edge from each pouch with scissors or a sharp knife, then insert a finger and gently work the two layers apart to open the pocket. Work slowly; tearing is irreversible, and the pouch is more pliable once cooled from cooking.
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4
Allow the prepared sushi rice to cool to slightly below hand temperature before filling — steam from hot rice will condense inside the pocket and render it soggy. Shape the rice into small oblongs and press each one into a pouch, filling without overpacking. Fold or tuck the open edge beneath. For gomoku inari, fold sesame seeds and finely chopped pickled ginger through the rice before filling. The finished piece should feel plump and hold its form without splitting at the seam.