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Anguilla alla Comacchiese

Step 1 of 5 ·
Serves 4

Ingredients

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Method

  1. 1
    Prepare a charcoal or wood fire and allow it to burn down to steady, glowing embers. The eel must be grilled over charcoal or wood; gas gives no smoke and the characteristic Comacchiese character is lost. Position the grill rack 15–20 cm above the embers — sufficient distance to control flare-ups from rendering eel fat. The fire is ready when the embers glow red with no active flame.
  2. 2
    Thread the eel pieces onto long skewers, placing one bay leaf between each adjacent piece. The bay leaves hold the pieces apart so that heat circulates on all surfaces and grilling — not steaming — takes place; they also perfume the flesh with laurel oils throughout cooking.
  3. 3
    Lay the loaded skewers over the embers and grill, turning once, until the surface develops a deep, even char and the fat runs visibly from the flesh. This is the step on which the dish lives or dies: the eel must reach full surface caramelisation — a dark, slightly crisped exterior with fat actively rendering — before any vinegar is introduced. Premature addition of vinegar prevents the Maillard reaction from developing and the dish collapses into a steamed, pallid result.
  4. 4
    In the final 2–3 minutes of cooking only, sprinkle white wine vinegar directly over the eel on the skewers. The vinegar will hiss and steam on contact with the hot, caramelised surface. Turn the skewers once more. The dish is done when the vinegar has reduced to a thin, glistening glaze and the hissing subsides.
  5. 5
    Remove the skewers from the heat and dress immediately with any remaining white wine vinegar. Serve the eel on its skewers — no other sauce is provided. Accompany with bread.
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HACCP Brief — Codex Alimentarius CXC 1-1969 Anguilla alla Comacchiese
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