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1
Kill the turtle immediately before cooking. Remove the head, drain the blood, and open the shell. Extract and discard all internal organs. Rinse the carcass repeatedly under cold running water until the water runs clear. Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Blanch the cleaned turtle for two to three minutes, then remove and scrape away the outer membrane from the skirt under cold running water. The skirt should be exposed, pale, and clean.
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2
Place the prepared turtle in a heavy braising vessel. Lay the Jinhua ham slices across and around the turtle. Add the ginger, spring onions, and Shaoxing wine. Add enough cold water to barely cover. Bring to a bare simmer — the surface should tremble but never boil aggressively. This is where the dish lives or dies: a vigorous boil will cause the skirt to disintegrate before its collagen has time to transform; only a sustained, gentle simmer of at least two hours will render it silken and yielding.
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3
Continue braising at a low simmer for a minimum of two hours, checking periodically that the liquid does not reduce below the turtle's body. After two hours, test the skirt by pressing it gently; it should offer no resistance and feel wholly soft and gelatinous to the touch.
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4
Remove the spring onions and ginger. Strain the braising liquid into a separate pan and reduce over moderate heat until it concentrates into a glossy, richly savoury sauce. Taste: the ham will have provided the primary salt; additional seasoning should be minimal. The aroma should be deeply umami, with a clear top note of Shaoxing wine.
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5
Present the turtle whole or halved in a deep serving dish. Pour the reduced braising liquid over. If roe is present in a female turtle, arrange it separately as a garnish. The skirt should appear glossy, deeply coloured, and visibly gelatinous.