Ankimo Monkfish Liver Preparation Advanced

Ingredients

• 600 g monkfish liver (ankimo), winter fish, October–March; liver should be large and pale beige with high fat content
• 500 ml milk, for soaking; or lightly salted water
• For the steaming broth
• 200 ml sake
• 200 ml water
• 10 g kombu, wiped clean
• To serve
• 60 ml ponzu
• 80 g daikon, finely grated
• 1 tsp ichimi tōgarashi, mixed into grated daikon to form momiji oroshi
• 20 g scallion, finely sliced

Method

1. 1
   Submerge the monkfish liver in milk or lightly salted water. Soak for 1–2 hours at refrigerator temperature. The liquid draws out blood and dissolved bitter compounds. The soak is complete when the soaking liquid is visibly pink-tinged and the liver has lightened in colour.
2. 2
   Lift the liver from the soaking liquid and blot dry. Working carefully, trace and remove all visible blood vessels with the tip of a paring knife or tweezers. Do not break the liver surface any more than necessary. The liver is ready when no dark vein lines remain visible on its surface.
3. 3
   Lay the liver on a sheet of plastic wrap. Shape it by hand into a compact log of 6–8 cm in diameter. Roll it firmly in the plastic wrap, twisting and compressing the ends tightly to form a sealed cylinder with no air pockets. The roll should feel taut and uniform when pressed along its length.
4. 4
   This is the step on which the dish lives or dies. Combine the sake, water, and kombu in the base of a steamer. Bring to a moderate steam — vigorous enough to maintain heat, not so fierce as to agitate the liquid violently. Place the wrapped cylinder above (not in) the liquid. Steam for 20–25 minutes until the internal temperature reaches 65 °C. The liver is done when it feels uniformly set and just firm — yielding slightly but not soft — when pressed through the wrap. Over-steaming beyond this point produces a mealy, dry interior; under-steaming leaves the centre unset.
5. 5
   Transfer the cylinder, still wrapped, into the steaming liquid and allow it to cool to room temperature. Refrigerate in the liquid for a minimum of several hours — or up to 1–2 days, which improves flavour integration and texture. The ankimo is ready to slice when it is thoroughly chilled and firm throughout; a warm roll will crumble on the knife.
6. 6
   Mix the grated daikon with the ichimi tōgarashi to form momiji oroshi; the mixture should be pale red and faintly pungent. Remove the plastic wrap and slice the chilled cylinder into rounds approximately 1.5–2 cm thick with a clean, damp knife. Plate cold with a small mound of momiji oroshi, a measure of ponzu alongside, and a pinch of sliced scallion. The ponzu should smell bright and citric against the round, oceanic richness of the liver.