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1
Grease a shallow tray or thali with ghee and set it near the stove before you light the flame, because the finished mixture moves from pan to tray in seconds and hesitation at that moment means the barfi begins to set unevenly in the pan. Having the tray within arm's reach is the one preparation that costs nothing to get right.
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2
Combine the sugar and water in a heavy pan and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring only until the sugar has fully dissolved so that the syrup stays clear and does not cloud with undissolved crystals. Once the syrup is boiling and clear, put the spoon down and do not stir again, because agitation at this stage seeds premature crystallisation and you will see the syrup turn white and grainy before it ever reaches the tray.
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3
Cook the syrup to the ek-tar (एकतार, single-thread) stage — approximately 105–107°C — because a thread shorter than 1–2 cm means the syrup holds too much water and the barfi will stay soft and sticky, while a thread that snaps immediately or refuses to form means the sugar has gone too far and will set grainy and dry. To test: wet the fingertips, take a small drop of syrup between thumb and forefinger, and draw the fingers slowly apart; the syrup is ready when one clean, unbroken thread of 1–2 cm holds before snapping — this is where the dish lives or dies.
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4
Remove the pan from the heat immediately and add the crumbled khoya, stirring to combine, so the residual warmth of the syrup softens and binds the khoya without scorching it on a live flame. Do not return the pan to the heat at this stage, because direct fire now will brown the milk solids and drive off the moisture that gives barfi its characteristic, yielding texture.
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5
Pour the combined mixture into the greased tray at once and spread it quickly to an even layer, working fast so the surface levels before the fudge begins to firm. If you are using vark, lay the silver sheets gently onto the warm surface now — the residual heat helps the delicate leaf adhere without pressing, which would crumple it.
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6
Allow the barfi to set completely at room temperature, because refrigerating it drives cold inward unevenly — the outside firms while the centre stays soft — and the condensation that forms when it is brought back out makes the surface tacky and ruins the vark. The barfi is ready when the surface looks matte and firm and the slab holds a clean, sharp edge when pressed with a finger.
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7
Cut into diamonds or squares with a sharp knife. The pieces should release cleanly with no sticky pull at the blade.