Beijing Duck — Third Service (Duck Soup and Congee)

Ingredients

• 1 Peking duck carcass, bones cracked to expose marrow
• 1.5 litres water, cold, to cover carcass
• 30 g fresh ginger, sliced
• 80 g glass noodles (fen si), dry weight; to rehydrate in bowl from broth, not pre-cooked
• Or, for congee
• 120 g white rice, added directly to broth and cooked briefly
• To season
• 1 tsp white pepper, ground; added at the bowl
• 1 tsp sesame oil, added at the bowl

Method

1. 1
   While the second service (sliced duck with pancakes) is still being consumed, crack the duck carcass — joints, spine, and long bones — to expose the marrow throughout. This step must be thorough: bones left intact will yield weak, clear broth rather than the milky result the ceremony demands.
2. 2
   Place the cracked carcass in a pot with the cold water and sliced ginger. Bring to a vigorous simmer over high heat and hold it there. Maintain high heat continuously for 20 minutes; the agitation emulsifies the collagen and fat into the water. The broth is ready when it has turned opaque and milky white throughout.
3. 3
   Do not skim the white fat from the surface. The milky appearance is the mark of the third service and is inseparable from the tradition. Strain the broth, discarding solids.
4. 4
   For glass noodles: place the dry fen si directly in individual bowls. Ladle the hot broth over them and leave to rehydrate. The noodles are ready when they are fully translucent and tender to the bite — they are not to be cooked in the pot.
5. 5
   Alternatively, for congee: return the strained broth to the heat, add the white rice, and cook until the grains are swollen and just beginning to break down into the liquid — a brief, simple porridge that carries the full accumulated flavour of the roasted duck.
6. 6
   Season each bowl at the table with ground white pepper and a few drops of sesame oil only. Taste: the broth requires nothing more.