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1
Place the sifted besan in a wide, heavy-based pan and add the melted ghee, then set over medium-low heat and stir continuously with a wooden spoon or flat spatula, keeping the flour at the edges and base of the pan in constant motion so no patch of flour scorches before the rest has cooked through. Continue for a minimum of 15 minutes and up to 20, moving the mixture without pause. The mixture is ready when it turns a deep golden tan and emits a fully nutty, deeply fragrant aroma — sugandhit — with no trace of raw legume smell.
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2
Remove the pan from the heat and allow the mixture to rest undisturbed for exactly 5 minutes, so the temperature drops enough that the sugar will not dissolve and turn syrupy on contact, yet the mixture stays warm and pliable enough to fold and shape without cracking. Do not rush this rest, and do not let it extend much beyond 5 minutes. Judge by touch: the pan should feel hot but no longer fierce.
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3
Add the sifted powdered sugar, ground cardamom, and grated nutmeg, then fold thoroughly until no white streaks remain and the mixture is perfectly uniform, distributing the spices evenly so no ladoo tastes more of cardamom than another. Press a small pinch between your fingers: it must hold its shape cleanly without crumbling or feeling sticky. This is where the dish lives or dies — too warm and the sugar melts to a claggy mass; too cool and the mixture will not bind at all.
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4
While the mixture is still warm, take a portion of approximately 40 g and press one whole raisin into the centre, then close the mixture firmly around it so the raisin is sealed inside rather than visible at the surface, which would cause a weak point when rolling. Roll firmly between both palms in steady circular pressure to form a smooth sphere, and set on a tray. Repeat with the remaining mixture; the ladoos are formed correctly when the surface is smooth, matte, and holds its round shape without cracks.
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5
Allow the formed ladoos to cool completely at room temperature so the ghee sets and firms each sphere from the outside in, giving them their characteristic dry, solid finish. They are ready when they feel solid and dry to the touch, neither tacky nor brittle. Store at room temperature for up to one week.