-
1
Combine the white wine, crushed garlic, massa de pimentão, bay leaves, and piri piri (if using) in a non-reactive container. Add the pork slices, turn to coat thoroughly, cover, and refrigerate for a minimum of 2 hours and preferably overnight. The marinade is done when the pork has taken on the deep red colour of the pepper paste.
-
2
Remove the pork from the marinade and reserve the liquid. Set a flat griddle or heavy frying pan over the highest heat available until it begins to smoke. This is where the dish lives or dies: the pan must be hot enough that each slice of pork sears on contact and colours immediately — if the temperature is insufficient, the pork steams and the texture becomes irretrievably soft and grey rather than tender with a browned exterior.
-
3
Sear the pork slices in a single layer, working in batches if necessary, for 1–2 minutes per side. When coloured, pour a splash of the reserved marinade into the pan and allow it to reduce rapidly with the pork, turning the slices once so they are lacquered in the concentrated, slightly acidic sauce. The pan juices are the sauce; they are done when reduced to a glossy, clinging consistency.
-
4
Smear the inside of each papo-seco with mustard. Pile the pork immediately into the rolls, spooning every drop of pan juice over the meat so that the cut face of the bread begins to absorb it. The roll is correctly dressed when the inner crumb is faintly soggy from the juices while the crust retains its structure. Serve at once.