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1
Dispatch the lobster humanely. Remove the tail and claw meat in the largest pieces possible and reserve under refrigeration. Separate the head, legs, and body into shell sections. Place a wide, heavy pot over high heat. Add the butter and a splash of oil. When the butter foams and begins to subside, add the shell sections in a single layer and sauté aggressively, turning occasionally, until every surface has turned vivid red and the base of the pan is coated in caramelised shell proteins. The colour is the test: pale shells mean insufficient Maillard development and a flat bisque.
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2
Reduce the heat to medium. Add the mirepoix and cook, stirring, until the vegetables soften. Add the tomato paste and cook, pressing it against the base of the pan, until it darkens to near-black and loses its raw, sharp smell. The scent should be deep, concentrated, and slightly caramelised.
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3
Increase the heat. Add approximately half the cognac (about 30 ml) and, standing well back from the pan, ignite it. Shake the pan gently until the flames subside completely — no blue flame should remain above the surface.
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4
Add the rice, white wine, fish stock, bouquet garni, and a pinch of cayenne. Bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat and cook uncovered for 40–45 minutes. The rice should be completely tender and the liquid visibly reduced. Taste: the flavour should be full-bodied and distinctly crustacean, with no raw, starchy note.
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5
Remove and discard the bouquet garni. Working in batches, transfer shells and liquid to a powerful blender or food processor and purée aggressively until the shells are as finely pulverised as the machine will allow. The object is to rupture the shell structure entirely, releasing the tomalley, coral, and fat bound within.
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6
Pass the purée through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean pot, pressing hard with the back of a ladle to drive every extractable element through. Pass again through muslin or a fine cheesecloth, squeezing firmly. The strained bisque should run clear and coral-coloured, with no shell debris visible. Any grit or fragment means further pressing is required.
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7
Return the bisque to a clean pot over medium heat. Adjust consistency by simmering if it is thin. Add the double cream and, if available, the lobster butter, stirring until fully incorporated. Add the remaining cognac (approximately 30 ml) without flambéing, to preserve its aromatic top notes. Season with salt, cayenne, and a squeeze of lemon. The finished bisque must coat the back of a spoon and hold the line drawn through it.
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8
Cut the reserved tail and claw meat into small, even dice. Warm the dice briefly in a little butter or in a spoonful of the bisque — they should be just heated through, not cooked further. Ladle the bisque into warmed bowls and place the lobster dice at the centre. The colour of the finished soup should be a deep, uniform sunset coral.