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1
Heat the oven to 180 °C. Season the chops on both sides with salt and pepper. Place 20 g of the cold butter in a cold heavy ovenproof pan and set the pan over medium heat. As the butter melts and the pan builds temperature gradually, lay in the chops. Sear without moving them until a deep golden crust forms on the first side — approximately 3–4 minutes — then turn once and colour the second side for a further 2–3 minutes. The gradual heat build protects the delicate veal from burning.
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2
Transfer the chops to a rack or plate, leaving them off the heat. Remove the pan from the burner briefly. Pour in the Barolo and add the rosemary sprigs and the demi-glace. Return the pan to medium-high heat and reduce the wine, uncovered, to approximately one-third of its original volume — roughly 125 ml — stirring occasionally. The rosemary must steep in the reducing wine for at least 5 minutes to release its oils. This is where the dish lives or dies: a reduction that is too brief will be sharp and one-dimensional; too far and the tannins turn bitter. The sauce is ready when it falls from a spoon in thick, syrupy drops and coats the back of the spoon like lacquer.
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3
While the sauce reduces, transfer the chops to the oven and roast for 6–8 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer reads 58–60 °C at the thickest point away from the bone. Remove and rest on the rack.
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4
Remove and discard the rosemary sprigs from the reduced sauce. Take the pan off the heat and add the remaining 20 g of cold butter in one piece, swirling the pan continuously until the butter is fully incorporated and the sauce is glossy and cohesive. Without this cold butter mount the sauce remains too sharp.
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5
Return each chop to the pan for 30 seconds per side, turning once, spooning the sauce over as it glazes. The surface of the chop should be lacquered and deeply mahogany in colour. Plate immediately, spooning any remaining sauce over the chop.