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1
Lay the capocollo slices flat on a board. Each slice must be 2–3 mm thick — any thicker and the roll will not close tightly; any thinner and it will tear. Inspect each slice and discard any that have torn through.
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2
Combine the Canestrato (or caciocavallo) batons, chopped parsley, black pepper and pancetta in a bowl. Mix briefly. Place a small, restrained portion of filling off-centre toward one edge of each capocollo slice. Do not over-fill: excess cheese will melt out onto the coals and burn before the pork is cooked through. The filling should sit in a neat line, not a mound.
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3
This is where the dish lives or dies. Roll each slice tightly away from the filled edge, keeping the roll firm and without gaps, then drive a toothpick through both ends to pin the roll shut. A loose roll opens in the heat and the filling falls out; a roll without a toothpick will always open.
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4
Prepare a charcoal grill or wood-fired oven to high, direct heat. The grate must be hot enough to char the pork on contact — hold your hand 10 cm above the grate and it should be bearable for no more than two seconds. Place the bombette on the grate. Grill for 6–8 minutes, turning every 2 minutes. Low heat dries them out; the goal is a charred, blistered exterior and a molten interior.
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5
The bombette are done when the exterior is visibly charred in places, with a deep golden-brown crust over the rest of the surface, and the toothpick, when pressed against the roll, meets no resistance from a rigid centre — the cheese has melted. Remove from the grill.
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6
Rest on a wooden board for 3 minutes. The interior continues to cook off the heat and the melted cheese sets to a cohesive, pulling consistency rather than running loose. Serve with lemon wedges alongside.