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1
Combine the 00 flour and eggs to form a smooth, supple dough. Knead until the surface is perfectly even and the dough springs back slowly when pressed. Wrap and rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes. The dough is ready when it no longer resists the heel of the hand.
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2
Soak the raisins in the grappa until fully plump. Drain and fold them, together with the grated bitter chocolate, cinnamon, and grated ricotta affumicata, into the cold mashed potato. Season with salt. Mix until the filling is uniform. The filling must be completely cold before use — a warm filling will soften the pasta seal and cause the parcels to burst in the water.
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3
This is where the dish lives or dies. Roll the rested dough through a pasta machine to setting 5 — thin enough to yield to the tooth, thick enough to contain a filling that expands as the sweet components heat. Cut rounds of approximately 8 cm. Place a scant teaspoon of cold filling at the centre of each round. Fold into a half-moon, pressing the edges firmly with the fingers and then crimping with the tines of a fork to create an airtight seal. Any gap will allow the filling to escape into the cooking water, and the filling is lost.
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4
Bring a large pan of well-salted water to a rolling boil. Cook the cjalsòns in batches, allowing room for them to move freely. They are done when they rise to the surface and the pasta at the sealed edge yields cleanly to a fingernail without resistance — approximately 3 to 4 minutes.
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5
Melt the butter in a wide pan over a moderate heat. Continue cooking, swirling occasionally, until the solids turn a deep hazelnut brown and the kitchen carries a distinct nutty smell. Remove from the heat immediately — the butter continues to cook in the pan. Lift the cjalsòns from the water with a slotted spoon, drain briefly, and turn them gently in the brown butter.
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6
Divide the cjalsòns among warm plates. Grate ricotta affumicata di Carnia abundantly over each portion at the moment of service. No further sauce is added — the complex filling requires only the neutral richness of the butter and the smoky salinity of the ricotta to speak clearly.