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1
Drain the sheep's ricotta: suspend it in cheesecloth over a bowl and refrigerate overnight, or for a minimum of one hour. The drained curd should feel dense and hold its shape when pressed — if it slumps or weeps, it will burst the seal during frying.
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2
Make the pastry: rub the lard into the flour until the mixture resembles coarse, uneven crumbs. Add the egg and sugar, then add white wine or grappa a little at a time, working the dough only until it comes together into a smooth, firm mass. It should not be sticky, and it should not crack at the edges when pressed — that is the test. Wrap and rest for 30 minutes.
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3
Make the filling: beat together the drained ricotta, eggs, sugar, lemon zest, cinnamon, and the liqueur if using, until the mixture is uniformly smooth. Taste: it should be lightly sweet, perfumed with cinnamon and citrus, with the characteristic slight tang of sheep's dairy — not rich to excess.
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4
Roll the rested pastry to 3 mm on a lightly floured surface. Cut discs of 9–10 cm diameter. Place one level tablespoon of filling at the centre of each disc, leaving a clear margin at the edge. This is where the dish lives or dies: fold the disc in half over the filling and press the curved edge closed with the tines of a fork — the forchettata seal — working firmly and evenly so that no gap remains. A seal that yields under light pressure will open in the oil and lose its filling.
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5
Bring the lard to 175 °C in a deep, heavy pan. Lower the calcioni in batches of four or five — do not crowd the pan. Fry, turning once, until both sides are an even, deep golden colour. A pale, blond calcione has not crisped: the crust will be soft and the pastry will have absorbed fat rather than repelled it.
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6
Lift the calcioni with a slotted spoon and drain on paper. While still warm, dust generously with icing sugar. They are ready when the sugar sits dry and white against the crust — if it dissolves on contact, the surface is still carrying too much fat.