Camoscio in Salmì con Polenta Concia Valdostana

Ingredients

• 1.2 kg chamois (camoscio), bone-in shoulder or leg, hung 4–5 days in a cool space, butchered into large braising pieces
• For the marinade
• 750 ml Valle d'Aosta red wine, Donnas or Torrette
• 1 medium onion, sliced
• 2 medium carrots, sliced
• 2 stalks celery, sliced
• 6 juniper berries, lightly crushed
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 sprig rosemary, fresh
• 3 sprigs thyme, fresh
• 1 tsp black peppercorns, whole
• For the braise
• 60 g lard
• 8 g bitter chocolate, minimum 70% cocoa; 5–10 g per kg of meat
• 1 sprig rosemary, fresh, reserved for the final 20 minutes
• fine salt salt, to adjust at the end
• For the polenta concia
• 200 g coarse polenta
• 800 ml water
• 150 g Fontina, rind removed, diced small
• 60 g unsalted butter, cut into cubes

Method

1. 1
   Place the chamois pieces in a deep, non-reactive container. Add the sliced vegetables, juniper berries, bay, rosemary, thyme and peppercorns. Pour over the wine; the meat must be fully submerged. Cover and refrigerate for 48 hours, turning the pieces once at the midpoint. The marinade is ready when the wine has taken on colour from the aromatics and the meat surface has dulled to a deep burgundy.
2. 2
   Lift the meat from the marinade and set it on a rack. Strain the marinade through a sieve, reserving the liquid and discarding the solids. Pat every surface of the meat thoroughly dry with kitchen paper. The surface must feel dry to the touch, with no moisture visible — any remaining liquid will steam rather than sear.
3. 3
   Pour the strained marinade into a wide saucepan and bring to a vigorous boil. Reduce by half over high heat. The reduced marinade should coat the back of a spoon lightly and carry no sharp raw-alcohol smell — the aroma should be of concentrated wine and aromatics.
4. 4
   Heat the lard in a heavy casserole over high heat until it shimmers and begins to haze. Brown the chamois pieces in batches, without crowding, turning to colour all sides. This is the step on which the dish lives or dies: a deep mahogany crust must form on every surface; pale or steamed meat will produce a flat, thin sauce regardless of what follows.
5. 5
   Return all browned meat to the casserole. Pour the reduced marinade over the pieces. Bring to a bare simmer, cover tightly, and braise over very low heat for 2 to 3 hours. Add the fresh rosemary sprig in the final 20 minutes. The meat is done when it yields completely to a skewer inserted at the thickest point and the fibres begin to separate at gentle pressure.
6. 6
   Remove the meat to a warm plate. Finely grate or chop the bitter chocolate and stir it into the hot braising juices off direct heat until dissolved. Adjust salt. The finished sauce should be dark, glossy and rounded — no single note of tannin, chocolate or salt should dominate.
7. 7
   While the braise finishes, bring the salted water to a rolling boil in a heavy saucepan. Rain in the polenta in a steady stream, stirring constantly. Cook over low heat, continuing to stir, until the polenta pulls from the sides of the pan. Remove from heat and beat in the Fontina and butter until fully melted and the polenta flows like thick cream. Keep warm in the pan; it should remain very soft, almost pourable.
8. 8
   Spoon the polenta concia into warmed deep plates. Place the chamois pieces on top and ladle the chocolate-enriched sauce over and around. Serve immediately; the polenta must still be fluid enough to absorb the braising sauce at the table.