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1
Combine the rice flour, tapioca starch, and wheat starch in a bowl. Whisk in the cold water gradually until a smooth, thin slurry forms with no lumps. The slurry should coat a spoon in a thin, almost watery film — a slurry that is too thick will produce cheong fun that is dense and opaque rather than silky and translucent.
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2
Set a flat metal steaming tray over a wok or steamer of rapidly boiling water. Brush the tray generously with neutral oil and allow it to heat until the oil shimmers and the surface is very hot to approach — this is the condition that prevents sticking and tearing on removal.
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3
Pour a thin, even layer of slurry onto the hot oiled tray — sufficient to cover the surface in a near-transparent sheet. Scatter the chosen filling across the surface. Slide the tray immediately into the steamer and cover. Steam for 2–3 minutes only. The sheet is ready when it is just set, no longer liquid, and has lifted slightly at the edges; it should appear milky and translucent, not white and opaque. This is where the dish lives or dies: a further minute produces a gummy, over-set sheet that cannot be rescued.
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4
Remove the tray from the steamer immediately. Working quickly while the sheet is still hot, use a wide flat scraper to roll the sheet forward into a cylinder, pressing lightly to seal. The cheong fun must be rolled while hot — if it is allowed to cool, the starch sets rigid and the sheet tears rather than rolls.
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5
Transfer the rolls to a serving plate. Stir together the oyster sauce, light soy sauce, and sesame oil. Spoon the sauce over the rolls and serve at once. The sauce should pool slightly around the rolls and carry the faint nutty scent of sesame oil — this indicates the balance is correct.