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1
Place the rice in a bowl with the pinch of salt and a few drops of sesame oil. Cover with cold water and soak for 30 minutes. Drain. The grains will appear slightly opaque and swollen.
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2
Transfer the drained rice to a large, heavy-based pot. Add water in a ratio of 1:10 to 1:15 (rice to water by volume). Bring to a vigorous boil over high heat.
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3
Reduce the heat to the lowest possible simmer. Stir regularly throughout cooking to prevent the rice from settling and adhering to the base of the pot. Continue for a minimum of 60–90 minutes. This is where the dish lives or dies: insufficient heat, too little water, or too short a cooking time will leave gummy, incompletely broken grains rather than a smooth, velvety porridge.
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4
The congee is ready when no distinguishable grains remain. Draw a spoon slowly across the surface: it should register perceptible weight and resistance — the Cantonese ideal of nong ru si, thick as silk. The surface is smooth and slightly shiny.
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5
Ladle into deep bowls. Arrange accompaniments — yau tiao, pao cai, peanuts, fermented tofu — alongside or on the table for each diner to take as they wish. The congee is the vehicle; the accompaniments are the seasoning.