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1
Select the fish according to preparation. For steamed (qing zheng), choose a delicate-fleshed whole fish — sea bass or bream are appropriate. For sweet-sour (Shandong style), choose a firmer-fleshed fish such as carp. In either case, the head and tail must remain intact. Score both sides of the fish to the bone at even intervals before proceeding. The fish is ready when the scoring reaches cleanly to the bone without tearing.
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2
For the steamed preparation: place the scored fish on a heatproof platter. Set the platter over a wok of vigorously boiling water, cover, and steam. This is where the dish lives or dies — steaming reveals the quality of the fish with complete honesty; a fish past its peak cannot be masked. Steam until the flesh at the thickest point, just behind the head, yields to gentle pressure and the scoring gaps have opened and turned opaque throughout.
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3
Remove the platter from the steamer. Discard any liquid that has collected. Lay fresh julienned spring onion and ginger across the length of the fish. Pour the light soy sauce evenly over the fish. Heat the neutral oil in a small pan until it begins to smoke visibly — it must be at full smoking point — then pour it directly over the aromatics. The oil will sear the ginger and spring onion on contact; the sizzle is the sign it is ready.
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4
For the deep-fried sweet-sour preparation: heat the oil in a wok to deep-frying temperature. Lower the scored fish carefully into the oil. Fry, basting the exposed side with hot oil, until the skin is a deep, even amber and the fins crisp to the touch. The crust must be firm and without soft patches before the fish is lifted.
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5
Combine rice vinegar, sugar, soy sauce, and dissolved cornstarch in a small saucepan. Bring to the boil, stirring, until the sauce thickens to a consistency that coats a spoon and holds a clear glaze. Pour over the fried fish immediately. The sauce should smell sharp and aromatic, not flat.
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6
To present: turn the fish so that its cleaner side faces up. Direct the head toward the most honoured guest. Do not remove the head or tail. To eat, lift the top fillet first; then lift the spine and bones in a single piece to reveal the bottom fillet. The fish is not flipped.