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1
Combine the toasted-and-ground cumin, coriander, and black pepper with the pounded garlic and vinegar to form the vinha d'alhos paste, then coat all surfaces of the meat thoroughly, cover, and refrigerate overnight — a minimum of eight hours, so the vinegar and spice carry their heat into the centre of the meat rather than sitting only at its surface. Two hours is insufficient for a cut of this density. The paste will smell deeply aromatic, and by morning the vinegar will have drawn a dark blush of colour from the meat.
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2
Remove the meat from the refrigerator and allow it to come toward room temperature, so the interior does not remain cold when it hits the pan and rob the crust of heat it cannot spare. Reserve all marinade liquid. Heat the lard in a heavy braising vessel over high heat until it shimmers, then working in uncrowded batches, brown every exposed surface of every piece until a deep, mahogany-coloured Maillard crust has formed — this is where the dish lives or dies, because the colour and depth of the finished braising liquid are built entirely here. The crust must be dark and firm to the touch before the piece is turned; if the meat steams rather than sears, no amount of braising time will recover that flavour.
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3
Remove the browned meat and, in the same vessel, fry the rempah — shallots, garlic, lemongrass, and toasted belacan — over moderate heat in the residual fat, so the fat draws out and melds the aromatics rather than leaving them raw at the centre. Cook until the shallots are completely soft and the paste smells rounded and fragrant rather than sharp. The belacan will lose its aggressive, pungent edge and settle into something deep and savoury — that is the moment to continue.
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4
Return the meat to the vessel, then add the reserved marinade liquid, coconut milk, palm sugar, cinnamon stick, and whole cloves, ensuring the liquid rises no more than two-thirds up the meat so it braises in concentrated steam rather than boiling away its depth. Bring to a gentle simmer, cover tightly, and cook over low heat for 1.5 to 2.5 hours. The meat is done when it yields completely to pressure and begins to fall from the bone.
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5
Lift the meat from the vessel, then strain and reduce the braising liquid over moderate heat until it is dark, glossy, and coats a spoon — neither thin nor over-thickened — so every mouthful of meat carries the full weight of the spice, vinegar, and coconut. Taste for the balance of vinegar warmth, spice depth, and the faint rounding of palm sugar. Return the meat to the sauce and serve with white rice.