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1
Place the whole aubergines directly over a gas burner at maximum heat, on glowing charcoal, or under a blazing grill at its highest setting. Turn them regularly with tongs so that every part of the skin is exposed to the flame. Continue for 25–30 minutes: the dish is ready to move forward when the skin is completely blackened all over and the aubergines have visibly collapsed and feel entirely soft when pressed.
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2
While still hot, peel away the charred skin with your fingers, working over a colander set in the sink. Discard the skin entirely. Place the revealed flesh in the colander and press gently but firmly with the back of a spoon. Leave to drain for 15 minutes: the preparation is ready to proceed when no more liquid runs from the flesh and the pulp feels dense rather than sodden.
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3
Transfer the drained pulp to a chopping board. Using a large knife, chop the flesh repeatedly — never a blender or food processor — until it is finely broken down but retains visible strands and a slightly rough, chunky character. The correct texture is evident by sight: discrete fibrous pieces, not a smooth paste.
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4
Transfer the chopped flesh to a bowl. Add the crushed garlic, lemon juice, and salt. Fold in the olive oil — 45–60 ml — with a spatula until each strand glistens. If using, fold in the pinch of cumin and the chopped herbs. Taste: the caviar should be profoundly smoky, sweet, and vegetal, with the olive oil providing evident richness rather than a background note.
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5
Set the caviar aside, uncovered, until it has returned fully to room temperature. Serve on a flat plate or in a shallow bowl with good bread. The caviar is ready when the smoke aroma rises freely and the surface glistens with olive oil — refrigerator cold mutes both.