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1
Beat the whole eggs thoroughly, then pass through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl. This removes the chalazae and any uncombined albumen that would produce white streaks in the finished custard. Allow to rest briefly so surface air bubbles settle. Skim off any remaining foam — surface foam creates a rough skin on the finished custard.
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2
Season the room-temperature ichiban dashi with soy sauce, mirin, and salt. The seasoning must be slightly more assertive than that of a clear soup: the egg protein blunts the perception of seasoning in the finished custard. Combine dashi with the strained egg at a ratio of 3 parts dashi to 1 part egg by volume. Stir gently to combine without reintroducing air. Skim any remaining foam from the surface.
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3
Place par-cooked chicken or prawn (and, in the premium winter version, yurine scales and mibuna-seasoned crab) into each chawanmushi cup. Do not fill garnishes higher than the midpoint of the cup. Pour the custard mixture over the garnishes, filling each cup to no more than three-quarters capacity — overfilling causes spillage and an uneven surface during steaming. If using, lay a sheet of plastic wrap directly on the surface of the poured custard to prevent condensation from later disturbing the surface. Set the lids in place.
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4
This is where the dish lives or dies. Bring the steamer to temperature and reduce to a gentle steam — the steaming environment must remain at approximately 85°C, well below the vigorous boil of 100°C. To achieve this, place a folded kitchen cloth between the steamer lid and the body, or drape moistened paper over the cups. Vigorous boiling steam causes the egg protein to coagulate too rapidly, producing su (pitting) and a firm, granular texture — the two cardinal defects of chawanmushi. Steam the cups gently for approximately 12 minutes.
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5
At 12 minutes, insert a thin skewer near the edge of one cup. If it emerges clean and the custard surface trembles as a unified mass when the cup is gently moved, the custard is set. If liquid trails from the skewer, extend steaming in 2-minute increments and test again. In the final 2 minutes of steaming, slide a mitsuba sprig through the cup lid hole — it will wilt to a tender texture without overcooking.
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6
Remove the cups from the steamer. Serve immediately, covered with their lids (futa): the lid retains heat and prevents the surface from drying during service. The finished custard should tremble perceptibly when carried to the table and should not hold its shape if unmoulded.