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1
Measure the eggs by volume. Combine them gently with ichiban dashi at a ratio of 1:3.5–4 (egg to dashi) — stir with slow, deliberate strokes rather than whisking. The mixture must not foam: air incorporation produces bubbles throughout the custard and a rough surface.
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2
Pass the egg-dashi mixture through a fine mesh sieve twice. Rest it undisturbed for 10 minutes so any remaining surface bubbles dissipate completely. The liquid should be still and glassy before it is poured.
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3
Arrange the fillings — shrimp, chicken, mitsuba stems, ginko nuts, shiitake, and fu — in each chawanmushi cup or deep ramekin. Pour the egg-dashi liquid over the arranged fillings slowly and without splashing.
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4
Set the cups in a steamer. This is where the dish lives or dies: the steam temperature must be held at 85–90°C, not at a full boil of 100°C. Place a wooden chopstick across the rim of the steamer lid to hold it slightly ajar — steam escaping at the gap holds the temperature in the required range. At 100°C, egg proteins tighten too rapidly and produce su — bubble holes throughout the custard — which is the mark of failed chawanmushi.
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5
Steam until the custard shows a slight resistance at the centre when the cup is gently shaken — it no longer wobbles uniformly. Remove the cups from the steamer before the custard appears fully set: it continues setting off the heat.
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6
Rest the cups off the heat for 5 minutes. The custard completes its setting during this period without overcooking. Place a fresh mitsuba sprig and a strip of yuzu zest on top of each cup immediately before serving — the garnish is never cooked.