Chettinad Chicken Curry — Kalpasi and Marathi Mokku Technique (செட்டிநாடு கோழி)

Ingredients

• 1.2 kg chicken, bone-in, curry cut into 10–12 pieces
• For the Chettinad masala paste
• 2 tsp coriander seeds, dry-roasted first batch
• 1 tsp cumin seeds, dry-roasted first batch
• 4 dried red Guntur chillies, dry-roasted first batch
• 4 green cardamom pods, dry-roasted second batch
• 1 tsp fennel seeds, dry-roasted second batch
• 3 g kalpasi (stone flower, Parmotrema perlatum), dry-roasted second batch; cannot be substituted
• 4 marathi mokku (dried flower buds), dry-roasted second batch; cannot be substituted
• 60 g fresh coconut, grated; toasted dry in pan before grinding
• 80 g shallots, roughly chopped
• For the base
• 150 g shallots, finely sliced
• 120 g tomato, roughly chopped
• 60 ml neutral oil
• 1 sprig fresh curry leaves
• 1 tsp turmeric, ground
• 1 tsp fine salt, or to taste
• To serve
• 1 raw onion, sliced into rings
• 2 lime wedges
• 200 ml thin buttermilk (mor), chilled

Method

1. 1
   Dry-roast the coriander seeds, cumin seeds, and dried Guntur chillies together in a heavy pan over medium heat, moving them constantly, until the coriander seeds darken one shade and the chillies blister at the edges — so that each spice releases its volatile fragrance fully without the heat burning away the deeper, rounder notes beneath. Transfer immediately to a plate the moment you catch that sharp, toasty fragrance; if the smell turns acrid, the batch is lost.
2. 2
   In the same pan, dry-roast the cardamom, fennel seeds, kalpasi, and marathi mokku as a second batch, keeping the heat slightly lower than the first, because the kalpasi and marathi mokku scorch before the harder seeds would — remove the moment the fennel turns pale gold. The pan should fill with a resinous, floral smell; these two ingredients are the Chettinad signature and cannot be approximated or omitted.
3. 3
   Without oil or liquid, toast the grated fresh coconut in the dry pan, stirring continuously, until it reaches a uniform pale amber — so the moisture in the coconut drives off completely, allowing it to carry the spice compounds deep into the paste rather than sitting wetly on top. Remove when the colour is perfectly even and the smell is nutty throughout.
4. 4
   Wet-grind all roasted spices with the toasted coconut and the rough-chopped 80 g shallots into a coarse paste, adding no water, so the natural oils from the spices and coconut bind the paste rather than diluting it and washing away their intensity. The paste should hold its shape when pressed and show visible texture; it must not be smooth.
5. 5
   Heat the oil in a wide, heavy pan, add the sliced 150 g shallots and curry leaves, and cook over medium-high heat, stirring, until the shallots are deep gold and beginning to stick at the edges — because shallots taken only to soft and pale will leave a raw, sweet note that fights the masala rather than supporting it. Add the chopped tomato and cook until it collapses and the oil begins to separate from the mass.
6. 6
   Add the turmeric and the entire masala paste, then fry, pressing and folding the paste into the onion-tomato base, until the oil rises visibly around the edges and the raw shallot smell in the paste has gone — because a paste that has not been fried out fully at this stage will taste sharp and unresolved no matter how long the chicken cooks. The paste should darken further and begin to catch lightly on the pan floor.
7. 7
   Add the chicken pieces and salt, then turn each piece to coat it thoroughly in the masala so the paste clings to the surface and flavours the flesh from the outside as it renders. Cover the pan and cook over medium heat, turning the chicken every few minutes, until the pieces are cooked through; remove the lid and increase the heat to drive off remaining moisture.
8. 8
   Continue cooking uncovered, turning constantly, until the masala is thick, dark, and clings to each piece with no pooling liquid in the pan — you want the curry nearly dry at service so the masala forms a dense, fragrant crust rather than a loose sauce. The curry is ready when the oil shimmers at the pan's edge and every piece is evenly coated. Serve with the raw onion, lime wedges, and the thin buttermilk (mor) alongside.