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1
Drain the chhena thoroughly, pressing it in muslin for at least 30 minutes, then pressing again with a weight, so that no water runs from it when you squeeze a handful in the palm — residual moisture will cause the batter to steam rather than caramelise. The chhena must hold a firm shape when pressed; if it feels at all wet, return it to the muslin and press again.
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2
Preheat the oven to 200 °C. Line a 20 cm round or small rectangular tin with banana leaf or sal leaf, pressing the leaf flat against the base and sides so that it imparts its faint, grassy fragrance to the crust as it bakes. In the absence of either leaf, use lightly greased parchment.
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3
In a wide bowl, combine the drained chhena, sugar, semolina, and cardamom, then work the mixture with the heel of the hand, kneading until fully cohesive, so the semolina is distributed evenly and will bind the mass as it bakes rather than leaving gritty pockets. No lumps of unmixed chhena should remain, and the mass should hold together when pressed — dense and damp but not wet.
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4
Transfer the mixture into the prepared tin and press it in firmly and evenly, so that any air pockets are expelled and the batter caramelises uniformly rather than collapsing around hollow spots. Level the surface, then tap the tin once against the worktop to settle the mass.
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5
Bake at 200 °C for 45 to 60 minutes — this is where the dish lives or dies: the exterior must caramelise to a very dark brown, almost burnt amber crust, and pulling the tin early will rob the cake of the bitter-sweet depth that defines it. Do not open the oven before 45 minutes, and do not remove the tin on account of the depth of colour; the crust is ready when it is a deep mahogany brown across the entire surface and the edges have pulled away slightly from the sides of the tin, while the interior remains dense and fudge-like.
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6
Remove from the oven and allow to cool completely in the tin without unmoulding, so the structure firms and the crust, which is brittle when hot, sets into the cake rather than cracking away. Wrap and rest overnight — the caramelised crust will soften slightly and the flavours will draw together — then unmould and slice like a cake; the interior should be moist and dense, the exterior crust dark and set.