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1
Place the whole chiles directly over a gas flame or under a broiler, turning occasionally, until the skins are fully blackened and blistered on all sides. Transfer to a bowl, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and leave to steam for 15 minutes. Peel away the charred skins, remove the stems and seeds, and chop the flesh roughly. The chiles are ready when the raw vegetal quality is gone and the flesh is sweet, smoky, and yielding.
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2
Season the pork cubes generously with salt and cumin. Heat the oil in a heavy pot or Dutch oven over high heat. Brown the pork in batches — do not crowd the pan — turning each piece until deeply coloured on at least two sides. Remove each batch and set aside. The surface of each cube must carry a genuine sear: no pale or grey patches.
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3
Reduce the heat to medium. Add the onion to the pot and cook in the remaining fat, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent, about 6 minutes. Add the garlic and cook a further 1 minute until fragrant.
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4
Add the tomatillos to the pot and cook, stirring, for 4–5 minutes until they begin to break down and release their liquid. The mixture should smell bright and tart.
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5
Return the seared pork to the pot. Add the chopped roasted chiles and enough stock to just cover the meat — approximately 500 ml. Stir to combine. Bring to a simmer, then reduce heat to low, cover, and braise for 1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours. The stew is ready when the pork yields completely when pressed with a spoon and the sauce has deepened in colour and body.
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6
If a thicker sauce is desired, stir the masa harina dissolved in cold water into the stew during the final 20 minutes of simmering, uncovered. Taste and adjust salt and cumin — both must be assertive. The finished stew should taste bright from the tomatillo, rich from the pork fat, and clean on the finish.