Chileatole (Mexican corn and chile soup)

Ingredients

• 2 dried ancho chiles, stems and seeds removed
• 2 dried pasilla chiles, stems and seeds removed
• 120 g masa harina, dissolved in cold water before use
• 480 ml cold water, for dissolving masa harina
• 1.2 litres chicken or pork poaching liquid, or plain water for vegetarian
• 300 g cooked chicken or pork, pulled or roughly shredded; omit for vegetarian
• 4 fresh epazote sprigs, leaves only
• 15 g lard, or neutral oil
• To serve
• 2 serrano chiles, thinly sliced
• 4 fresh epazote sprigs, whole, for garnish

Method

1. 1
   Toast the dried ancho and pasilla chiles in a dry skillet over medium heat, pressing each flat for a few seconds per side, until the skin blisters and the chile softens and releases a sharp, toasty fragrance. Transfer immediately to a bowl, cover with hot water, and soak for 20 minutes. The chiles are ready when they are fully pliable and the soaking water is deeply coloured.
2. 2
   Drain the soaked chiles and transfer to a blender with a ladleful of the soaking liquid. Blend to a smooth, uniform purée. The purée should coat a spoon and show no fibrous threads.
3. 3
   Melt the lard in a heavy pot over medium heat. Add the chile purée and fry, stirring constantly, for 4 to 5 minutes. The purée will darken by one shade, lose its raw smell, and pull away slightly from the sides of the pot. This is where the dish lives or dies: insufficient frying leaves a raw, flat chile taste; excessive heat will scorch the sugars and make the soup bitter.
4. 4
   Pour the poaching liquid into the pot with the fried chile base and bring to a gentle simmer. Add the epazote leaves. Stir to combine; the broth should be a deep rust-red, fragrant with dried chile and herb.
5. 5
   Whisk the masa harina into the cold water until fully dissolved and lump-free. With the soup at a gentle simmer — never at a rolling boil — pour the dissolved masa in a slow, steady stream, stirring continuously. Continue stirring for 8 to 10 minutes. The soup is done when it thickens to a pourable consistency, heavier than a broth but thinner than porridge, and no raw corn flour taste remains on the palate.
6. 6
   Add the shredded chicken or pork, if using, and simmer a further 5 minutes, stirring regularly so the masa does not settle and scorch on the pot bottom. The meat should be heated through and the soup should flow easily from a ladle.
7. 7
   Ladle into bowls. Garnish each with a few slices of serrano and a sprig of epazote. Serve immediately.