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1
The night before: spread the cooked rice on a tray or in an open container and refrigerate uncovered. Before cooking, break apart every clump by hand until the grains are individual and dry at the surface. The rice is ready when no clump survives the hand.
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2
Set the wok over the highest available heat and allow it to become thoroughly hot. Add the oil and swirl to coat. Pour in the beaten eggs and leave them undisturbed for a few seconds, then stir with a spatula until almost set — the eggs should still be slightly wet and glossy at the centre when the rice goes in.
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3
Add the cold rice immediately to the semi-set egg. This is where the dish lives or dies: the cold rice must enter a wok that has lost none of its heat, and the result is an immediate dry, crackling sound as the grains make contact with the hot surface — the audible confirmation that the rice is frying rather than steaming. If the sound is a dull, wet hiss, the wok is too cool and the grains will mat. From this moment, toss continuously at maximum heat.
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4
Continue tossing without pause. The egg, still finishing its set, coats each rice grain in a thin, even film. Toss until no visible wet egg remains and every grain carries a pale golden coat.
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5
With the wok still on maximum heat, add the light soy sauce and, if using, the few drops of dark soy sauce. Toss immediately so the seasoning distributes before it scorches. Add the white pepper and toss again. The rice should smell savoury and faintly smoky — the wok breath, or wok hei, is detectable as a dry, slightly charred aroma.
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6
Remove the wok from the heat. Add the sesame oil and the sliced spring onions. Toss once more. Taste for seasoning. The spring onion's fresh, green sharpness should be perceptible against the richness of the egg and oil — if it is not, the wok was still too hot when they were added.