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1
Before the wok goes on the heat, dissolve the fermented tofu cubes in 2 tbsp of water, mashing and stirring until no lumps remain. The paste must be entirely smooth — any undissolved chunks will seize and scorch rather than coat the greens evenly.
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2
Set the wok over the highest available flame and heat until it begins to smoke. Add the oil and swirl to coat. Add the garlic and let it sizzle for a few seconds until fragrant and just beginning to colour — the kitchen should smell sharply of toasted allium.
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3
Add the water spinach stalks first. Toss continuously over maximum heat for approximately 20 seconds. A splash of Shaoxing wine may be added at this stage; the burst of steam accelerates the initial cook. The stalks should be just beginning to yield at their tips.
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4
Add the leaves and pour the fermented tofu paste over the contents of the wok. Toss everything together with speed and force — this is the moment on which the dish lives or dies: total elapsed cooking time from this point must not exceed 60 to 90 seconds. Any longer and the leaves darken, release their moisture, and turn slick and dull. The finished dish is bright green, glossed with the savoury paste, carrying the faint char of wok hei.