Chou Farci — Stuffed Cabbage

Ingredients

• 1 large Savoy cabbage, tight head, outer leaves removed, core cut out
• For the forcemeat
• 500 g minced pork, not too lean — fat is essential for moisture
• 200 g minced veal
• 1 medium onion, finely diced, sweated in butter
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 100 g fresh breadcrumbs, soaked in milk and squeezed dry
• 1 egg
• 1 tsp fresh thyme leaves
• 2 tbsp flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
• ¼ tsp quatre-épices, pinch
• to taste salt and black pepper
• For the braise
• 2 medium carrots, sliced
• 2 medium onions, sliced
• 100 g bacon rinds
• 1 litre stock, enough to come two-thirds up the cabbage
• 1 bouquet garni

Method

1. 1
   Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a rolling boil. Lower the whole Savoy cabbage into the water and blanch for 5–8 minutes. The leaves are ready when they are pliable and flexible but retain sufficient structure to hold forcemeat without tearing; they must not be soft.
2. 2
   Lift the cabbage out and refresh immediately in cold water. Drain upside down. Once cool enough to handle, carefully separate the leaves from largest to smallest, keeping each intact. Set aside in order of size.
3. 3
   Sweat the diced onion in butter until translucent and without colour. Combine in a bowl with the minced pork, minced veal, garlic, breadcrumbs, egg, thyme, parsley, and quatre-épices. Season generously with salt and pepper. Mix until the forcemeat is cohesive and holds its shape when pressed.
4. 4
   Lay a large square of muslin or cheesecloth flat on the work surface. Place the largest cabbage leaves in the centre, overlapping to form a base. Spread an even layer of forcemeat over the leaves. Set the next smaller leaves on top and spread with more forcemeat. Continue rebuilding the cabbage layer by layer — leaf, forcemeat, leaf, forcemeat — reconstructing its original spherical form. This is where the dish lives or dies: each layer must be firmly pressed and the muslin gathered and twisted with sufficient tightness that the sphere holds its shape through the entire braise; a loosely wrapped cabbage will collapse in the pot.
5. 5
   Preheat the oven to 160 °C. Scatter the sliced carrots, sliced onions, and bacon rinds across the base of a casserole large enough to hold the cabbage comfortably. Set the wrapped cabbage on this bed. Pour in enough stock to come two-thirds up the side of the cabbage. Add the bouquet garni. Bring to a gentle simmer on the hob.
6. 6
   Cover the casserole and transfer to the oven. Braise for 2.5–3 hours, basting the cabbage occasionally with the braising liquid. The dish is done when the outer leaves are deeply coloured and meltingly soft — a leaf pressed between the fingers should offer no resistance.
7. 7
   Lift the cabbage from the casserole and remove the muslin. Strain the braising liquid into a saucepan and reduce over moderate heat until it reaches a sauce consistency with a clean, concentrated savour. Carry the cabbage to the table whole, slice into thick wedges, and spoon the reduced braising liquid over each portion. Each cross-section should reveal distinct alternating layers of green leaf and forcemeat.