Chutney: Fresh and Cooked

Ingredients

• Green chutney
• 1 large bunch fresh coriander, leaves and tender stems
• 1 small bunch fresh mint, leaves only
• 1–2 green chilli, to taste
• 30 ml lime juice, freshly squeezed
• 1 tsp fine salt
• 1 clove garlic, optional, peeled
• Coconut chutney
• 200 g fresh coconut, grated; desiccated coconut is not a substitute
• 1–2 green chilli, roughly chopped
• 10 g fresh ginger, peeled and roughly chopped
• 8–10 fresh curry leaves, divided: some for grinding, some for tarka
• For the tarka (coconut chutney)
• 1 tsp black mustard seeds
• 15 ml neutral oil
• Tamarind chutney
• 100 g tamarind block, soaked in 250 ml warm water, pulp extracted
• 60 g jaggery, grated; raw cane sugar may substitute
• 10 g fresh ginger, finely grated
• 1 tsp ground cumin
• 1 dried red chilli or fresh green chilli, to taste
• 1 tsp fine salt

Method

1. 1
   GREEN CHUTNEY. Combine coriander, mint, green chilli, lime juice, salt, and garlic if using, then pound in a mortar or blend to a coarse paste, keeping the texture rough so the chutney holds its body rather than turning to a thin, watery purée. Taste immediately: the paste should strike with sharp, bright herb character — the coriander vivid and grassy, the mint clean and cool — so if either note already seems muted, you have ground too long and lost the volatile oils that carry the flavour. Serve at once or within a maximum of 24–48 hours, because the aromatic character begins to fade from the moment grinding is complete and a chutney made four hours before service has already surrendered a significant portion of itself.
2. 2
   COCONUT CHUTNEY. Grind fresh coconut, green chilli, ginger, and a portion of the curry leaves to a paste, working until the texture is thick, moist, and just cohesive — not dry or granular — so that the natural coconut milk released during grinding binds everything together rather than leaving the paste crumbly. Do not substitute desiccated coconut: it has lost that moisture and will produce a dry, mealy result that no amount of added water will fully correct.
3. 3
   Prepare the tarka for the coconut chutney by heating the oil in a small pan until it shimmers, then add the mustard seeds and remaining curry leaves, standing ready, so the seeds pop and the leaves crackle and turn translucent at their edges before the heat drives off the aromatics into the oil itself. Pour the tarka immediately over the coconut paste while it is still sizzling and fragrant, so the heat blooms the spice directly into the chutney rather than fading in the pan, then stir through.
4. 4
   TAMARIND CHUTNEY. Combine tamarind water, jaggery, ginger, cumin, chilli, and salt in a small pan, then reduce over moderate heat, stirring regularly to prevent the jaggery catching on the base of the pan where it will turn bitter rather than sweet. Pull the chutney from the heat when it coats a spoon and holds a brief trail when a finger is drawn across the back — if it reduces past this point it will set hard on cooling and the balance of sour, sweet, and warm spice, which should already be evident in the aroma before you taste, will collapse into something flat and over-concentrated.