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1
Combine the boar chunks with the Chianti, juniper, bay, garlic and rosemary in a non-reactive bowl. Cover and refrigerate for 24–48 hours. Lift the meat out, discard every drop of the marinade, and pat the chunks thoroughly dry with kitchen paper. The surface must be dry to the touch before browning begins.
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2
Heat the olive oil in a wide, heavy casserole over high heat until a wisp of smoke just appears. Brown the boar in uncrowded batches, turning each piece without moving it prematurely. This is where the dish lives or dies: every surface must reach a deep mahogany crust — a pale, grey piece cannot recover its flavour in the braise. Set the browned meat aside.
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3
Reduce the heat to medium. Add the onion, celery and carrot to the same casserole and cook in the residual oil, stirring occasionally, until softened and faintly golden at the edges — the soffritto should smell sweet and caramelised, with no raw bite remaining.
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4
Return the browned boar to the casserole. Pour in the fresh Chianti and raise the heat; let it bubble vigorously until the sharp alcohol smell dissipates, then add the crushed tomatoes, rosemary and sage. Season with salt and pepper.
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5
Cover, reduce to the lowest possible simmer and braise for 1 hour 30 minutes, turning the meat once at the halfway point. The meat should offer only slight resistance when pressed with a spoon — it is not yet done if it springs back firmly.
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6
Add the olives and capers. Continue braising, covered, for a further 30 minutes. The olives should be just yielding but retain a faint bite — not collapsed or translucent.
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7
Remove the lid. Stir in the dark chocolate pieces and simmer uncovered for the final 20 minutes. The sauce must reduce to a coating consistency — it should fall from a spoon in thick, slow ribbons and coat the back without running. Taste and adjust salt.