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1
Combine the 00 flour and salt on a clean surface or in a bowl. Add the oil, then the cold water gradually, working the mixture until a cohesive dough forms. Knead firmly for 8–10 minutes. The dough is ready when the surface is smooth and the mass springs back slowly under a pressed fingertip.
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2
Wrap the dough and rest it at room temperature for 30 minutes. The surface will relax and lose all resistance to stretching.
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3
Rice the boiled potato while it is still hot. Spread it on a clean cloth or tray and allow all steam to escape — this is the step on which the dish lives or dies: any residual moisture in the potato will cause the cjalsons to burst during boiling, and the filling's discrete character will be lost. The riced potato must be completely dry and cool before the filling is assembled.
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4
Combine the dry riced potato with the grated ricotta affumicata, grated dark chocolate, drained grappa-soaked raisins, cinnamon, lemon zest, and salt. Mix to a firm, cohesive paste. The chocolate and cinnamon must be clearly present; work the paste until the aromatic elements are evenly distributed throughout.
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5
Roll the rested dough to a thin sheet, approximately 2 mm. Cut rounds of 7–8 cm diameter. Place a teaspoon of filling at the centre of each round. Fold into a half-moon and press the edge firmly to seal, working out any air pockets. The sealed edge must hold without gaps — press and crimp with purpose.
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6
Cook the cjalsons in well-salted boiling water for 3–4 minutes, no more. They are done when they float at the surface and the pasta yields cleanly under gentle pressure from a spoon — beyond this point the pasta becomes soggy and the filling loses its discrete layered character.
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7
While the cjalsons cook, melt the butter over a medium flame and continue cooking past the foaming stage until the solids turn golden-brown and the kitchen carries a distinct nutty smell — burro nocciola. Remove from heat immediately at this point.
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8
Drain the cjalsons and transfer to warmed plates. Spoon the browned butter over immediately, scatter crumbled ricotta affumicata across the surface, and dust with cinnamon. Serve at once — the butter must gloss the pasta and the ricotta must retain its texture.