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For the creamy tradition: whisk together the mayonnaise, white wine vinegar, and sugar until the sugar dissolves and the dressing is uniformly smooth. For the vinegar-based tradition: whisk together the cider vinegar, neutral oil, and sugar in the same manner. This is where the dish lives or dies — the acid level must be sharp enough to cut through the fat it will accompany; taste the dressing alone and adjust until it is noticeably tart before the vegetables dilute it.