Cordula Sarda — Braided Lamb Intestines Grilled or Stewed

Ingredients

• 1.2 kg lamb intestines (budella di agnello), very fresh, from a trusted butcher
• 1 litre acidulated water, cold water with a generous splash of white wine vinegar or lemon juice, for soaking
• 2 lemons, halved, for seasoning and table service
• 1 tsp fine sea salt
• For the in umido version only
• 30 ml extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 medium onion, finely sliced
• 200 g canned peeled tomatoes, roughly crushed
• 200 g canned peas, drained
• To serve
• 4 sheets carta musica (pane carasau), Sardinian flatbread

Method

1. 1
   Turn the intestines inside out and wash under a strong current of cold running water, working the length of each strand by hand. Reverse again, repeat the rinse, then submerge in acidulated water and soak for 1 hour. Drain and rinse twice more under running water. The intestines are ready when they carry no residual odour beyond a clean, faintly animal scent.
2. 2
   Divide the cleaned intestines into 3 or 4 strands of equal length. Braid them loosely into a long plait using the same over-under pattern as a traditional Sardinian bread braid — loose enough that the braid can expand without tearing during cooking. Secure each end with a toothpick or a short length of the same intestine tied in a knot. The finished plait should feel supple and give visibly when pressed.
3. 3
   THIS STEP IS WHERE THE DISH LIVES OR DIES. For arrosto: build a live ember fire and allow it to reach a steady, fierce heat with no raw flame. Season the plait with salt and a squeeze of lemon. Lay the cordula on the grill directly over the embers. Turn every 2–3 minutes. Continue for 15–20 minutes total, until the outer surface is deeply charred and crisp and — critically — the interior folds are cooked fully through: a thin skewer inserted into the centre of the braid and held there for 3 seconds should emerge too hot to hold against the back of the hand. Do not stop at surface char alone; underdone intestines are both unsafe and texturally unacceptable.
4. 4
   For in umido: warm the olive oil in a wide, heavy pan over a medium-high flame. Lay the raw plait in the pan and brown on all sides, turning with tongs, until the surface is uniformly golden — 6–8 minutes. The sound of active sizzling dropping to a quieter fry signals adequate colour.
5. 5
   Add the sliced onion to the pan and allow it to soften in the fat alongside the plait, 2–3 minutes. Add the crushed tomatoes and drained peas. Turn the plait to coat. Cover the pan, reduce the heat to a gentle simmer, and braise for 30–40 minutes, turning the plait once at the halfway point. The cordula is done when it offers no resistance to a skewer and the braising liquid has reduced to a dense, brick-coloured sauce that coats the back of a spoon.
6. 6
   Arrosto: transfer to a board and dress immediately with fresh lemon juice. In umido: lift the plait onto a warmed dish and spoon the tomato-and-pea sauce over and around it. Serve both versions with sheets of carta musica.