Dampfnüdle

Ingredients

• For the dough
• 500 g plain flour
• 250 ml whole milk, warmed to approximately 26 °C
• 30 g fresh yeast
• 50 g caster sugar
• 50 g unsalted butter, softened
• 2 eggs
• 1 pinch fine salt
• ½ lemon, zest only, finely grated
• For cooking
• 30 g unsalted butter
• 150 ml whole milk
• 2 tbsp caster sugar

Method

1. 1
   Dissolve the fresh yeast in the warm milk and leave for 5 minutes. Combine the flour, sugar, salt and lemon zest in a large bowl. Add the yeast milk, the eggs and the softened butter. Knead by hand for 8–10 minutes until the dough is smooth, elastic and pulls cleanly from the bowl. It is ready when a small piece stretched between the fingers holds a thin, translucent membrane without tearing.
2. 2
   Shape the dough into a ball, cover the bowl with a cloth and leave to proof at approximately 26 °C for 1 hour. The dough is ready when it has doubled in volume and a finger pressed into its centre leaves an indent that does not spring back.
3. 3
   Turn the risen dough onto a lightly floured surface. Divide into 8–10 pieces of approximately 80–90 g each. Shape each piece into a taut, smooth ball by rolling it under a cupped palm. Arrange on the work surface, cover loosely and rest for 10 minutes; the balls will relax and puff slightly.
4. 4
   Melt 30 g butter in a large, deep skillet over moderate heat. Place the dough balls in the pan in a single layer, leaving small gaps between each. Cook uncovered for 3–4 minutes. This is the step on which the dish lives or dies: the bottoms must reach a deep, even golden colour — not pale, not burnt — before any liquid enters the pan; that crust is the defining feature of the Dampfnüdle and cannot be recovered later. Lift one dumpling with a spatula to confirm the colour.
5. 5
   Mix the 150 ml milk with the 2 tablespoons of sugar. Pour this liquid around — never over — the dumplings so the golden bottoms are not wetted. It should sizzle audibly on contact with the hot butter. Immediately clamp the lid on tightly and reduce the heat to low.
6. 6
   Steam for 18–20 minutes without lifting the lid. The dumplings swell and press against one another to form a single interconnected mass. At the end of the time, remove the lid: the tops must be matte white and spongy to the touch, not wet or sticky; the pan should smell of toasted butter and warm milk. Any residual liquid in the pan will have largely absorbed or evaporated.
7. 7
   Serve immediately, pulling the dumplings apart at the table. For dessert, accompany with vanilla sauce, crème anglaise or stewed plums. For a savoury service, omit the sugar from both dough and cooking liquid and present alongside a civet, Boeuf Bourguignon or braised fruit.