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1
Beat the eggs thoroughly until the white and yolk are fully homogeneous — no streaks of white remain. Combine the dashi, mirin, soy sauce, and salt, then stir this mixture into the beaten egg. The liquid should taste as much of dashi as of egg.
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2
Set a rectangular tamagoyaki pan over medium heat and brush lightly with oil. Pour in just enough egg mixture to coat the pan surface in a thin, even layer — tip the pan to distribute it fully. Cook until the surface is barely set: still wet and fluid on top, no longer liquid beneath.
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3
This is where the dish lives or dies. While the surface of the layer remains visibly wet and fluid — not yet set — begin rolling the egg away from you toward the far end of the pan using chopsticks and a spatula, forming the first cylinder. If the layer is allowed to set fully before rolling, the next layer will not bond to it; the roll becomes a stack of separate omelettes rather than an integrated whole.
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4
Push the roll to the far end of the pan. Brush the empty space with a little more oil, then pour in the next thin layer of egg. Lift the existing roll with the spatula to allow the fresh egg to flow beneath it. Cook again until just barely set on the surface.
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5
Roll the cylinder back over the new layer toward the near end of the pan, incorporating it into the roll. Repeat the push-oil-pour-flow-roll sequence a further two to three times until all the egg mixture is incorporated — three to four layers in total. The roll will be plump and rectangular in cross-section.
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6
Transfer the finished roll immediately to a bamboo mat (makisu). Roll the mat firmly around it and press the roll into a neat rectangle, tucking in the ends. Hold the pressure for two minutes. The egg sets into shape; it should yield under gentle pressure, feeling moist and slightly resilient — not hard, not collapsing.
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7
Unwrap and slice the roll in cross-section. The correct result is clearly visible concentric pale-yellow ovals — the structure of the rolling fully legible in the cut face. The texture at the exterior is lightly firm; the centre is custardy and yielding. Neither layer should be rubbery or dry.