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1
The night before: cut tortillas into 1.5-inch squares and leave uncovered at room temperature to dry completely.
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2
Blend the broiled tomatoes, broiled serranos, garlic, and sea salt into a sauce. Set aside.
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3
Heat the safflower oil in a wide, heavy pan over medium-high heat. Fry the dried tortilla pieces until pale gold. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain briefly.
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4
Discard excess oil if needed, leaving only a thin film. Return tortilla pieces to the pan. Pour in the blended sauce and stir over medium heat for 2 minutes, coating the tortillas evenly.
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5
Scatter the chopped onion and epazote over the top. Cover the pan and cook for 8 minutes, until the tortillas have softened and absorbed the sauce.
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6
Remove from heat. Finish with crumbled queso fresco and cream if using. Serve immediately.