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1
For elote: grill the corn cobs directly over charcoal, turning regularly, until the kernels carry distinct char marks in spots across the surface and the exposed flesh is fragrant with smoke — the cook seeks an uneven result, not uniform colour. The corn is ready when the charred patches are deep amber to near-black and the remaining kernels are bright yellow and tender.
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2
Remove each cob from the heat immediately. Apply mayonnaise generously over the entire surface of each hot cob — the heat keeps the mayonnaise fluid and ensures it coats and adheres. This is where the dish lives or dies: if the corn is cold when the mayonnaise is applied, the layer seizes, the cheese will not adhere, and the final balance of the snack is lost.
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3
Roll each mayonnaise-coated cob through the crumbled cotija cheese, pressing lightly so the cheese embeds into the coating on all sides. The surface should appear densely freckled with white crumble, with no large bare patches of mayonnaise visible.
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4
Dust each cob with the chile de árbol or piquín mixture, then squeeze lime juice over the surface to order. Serve immediately while the corn is hot.
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5
For esquites: cut the kernels cleanly from the grilled or boiled cobs. Melt the butter in a pan over medium heat and sauté the kernels briefly with the epazote leaves until the herb is fragrant and the corn is heated through. The epazote should be detectable — a resinous, slightly medicinal aroma distinct from the corn.
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6
Warm the serving cups before ladling in the corn. Season generously with salt, lime juice, crumbled cotija, and chile powder in sequence — under-seasoning is the characteristic failure of esquites. Taste and adjust: the cup should deliver salt, heat, acid, and sweetness in clear succession.