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1
Plump the raisins in warm water for 15 minutes, then drain well and pat dry. Dissolve the yeast in the warm milk with a pinch of the sugar and leave for 5 minutes. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, remaining sugar, eggs, grappa, lemon zest, orange zest, and cinnamon. Pour in the yeast-milk mixture and beat to a smooth, loose batter — it should fall from the spoon in thick ribbons, not hold its shape. If it is too stiff, add a little more warm milk. Fold in the drained raisins and pine nuts. The batter is ready when it coats the spoon and flows slowly.
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2
Cover the bowl with a clean cloth and leave at room temperature until the batter has doubled in volume, 1 to 1.5 hours. The surface should dome, bubble at the edges, and smell distinctly yeasty and fragrant with citrus and spirit.
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3
Heat the neutral oil in a deep, heavy pan to 160–170 °C. This is where the dish lives or dies: below 160 °C the fritters absorb excess oil and are greasy; above 170 °C the exterior scorches before the interior cooks through. Hold the temperature steady throughout frying.
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4
Working in batches, drop tablespoon-sized portions of batter into the oil using two spoons or a wet tablespoon. Do not crowd the pan. The fritters will puff and rotate in the oil as they cook. Fry for 3–4 minutes, turning once or twice, until evenly golden-brown on all sides. They are done when the exterior is deep amber and a light tap on the surface returns a hollow sound.
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5
Lift the fritters with a slotted spoon and drain briefly on paper. Dust generously with icing sugar while still hot from the oil — the heat causes the sugar to melt and caramelise slightly against the surface. Sugar applied once the fritters have cooled will absorb oil rather than adhere cleanly.