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1
Place the jointed hen pieces in a cold wide casserole with the olive oil. Set over a low flame. Allow the pieces to render slowly, turning occasionally, for 20–25 minutes. The technique requires patience: gradual heat draws more flavour from a mature bird than a hot sear. The pieces are ready when the skin is golden and the fat runs clear in the pan.
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2
Pour in the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi. Raise the heat to medium and allow the wine to reduce by half, approximately 8–10 minutes. The sharp mineral aroma of the wine softens and the sharp edge disappears from the steam rising off the pan.
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3
Add the crushed pomodori pelati, the tied salvia and rosmarino, salt, and black pepper. Stir to combine. Reduce the heat to the lowest possible setting, cover the casserole, and braise for 1 hour. At the end of the first hour, remove and discard the herb bundle — their flavours are fully extracted.
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4
Continue braising, covered, for a further 40 minutes. This is where the dish lives or dies: the mature hen requires a minimum of 2 hours total braising time for the connective tissue to dissolve and the braising liquid to achieve its deep, concentrated character. A fork pressed to the thickest piece of thigh meat must meet no resistance; the fibres must begin to yield from the bone without tearing. Under-braised hen is the irredeemable error.
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5
Add the whole Oliva Ascolana Tenera DOP to the casserole. Replace the lid and continue braising for a final 20 minutes. The olives must warm through and release their mild, buttery flavour into the sauce without disintegrating. They are done when they are heated to the core and the sauce carries a distinct olive character on the nose.
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6
Taste and correct for salt. The finished braising liquid should be reduced, glossy, and coat a spoon with body. Serve the hen pieces with the olives and sauce spooned over, alongside roasted polenta to absorb the juices.