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1
Combine the sifted besan, ajwain, red chilli, turmeric, and salt for the gatte in a bowl, then rub in the oil until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs — this coats the flour particles in fat so the dough stays short and the cooked gatte hold their bite rather than turning dense. Add water in small increments, kneading after each addition, until a firm, non-sticky dough forms. The dough is ready when it resists the thumb and holds a clean edge when cut; if it yields easily, work in a little more besan.
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2
Divide the dough and roll each portion between the palms into finger-thick cylinders of roughly 1.5 cm diameter, keeping them even so they cook at the same rate. Bring the salted water to a full boil, then lower the cylinders in — salting the water seasons the gatte from the outside inward as they cook. The gatte are done after 8–10 minutes when they rise to the surface and feel firm when pressed with a spoon; a soft or yielding cylinder needs more time.
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3
Lift the gatte from the water and reserve the cooking water, which carries dissolved besan and seasoning that will later loosen and body the sauce. When cool enough to handle, slice each cylinder into rounds of approximately 2 cm. If frying, heat a little oil in a wide pan over medium-high heat and fry the rounds in a single layer — the cut faces sear and form a light crust that keeps the rounds intact once they go into the simmering curry — until lightly golden and edged with crisp, 2–3 minutes per side.
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4
Whisk the yoghurt together with the 2 tablespoons of besan until fully smooth and no lumps remain — the besan acts as a stabiliser so the yoghurt holds together under heat rather than weeping and curdling. Heat the oil for the tarka in a heavy pan, add the mustard seeds, and let them splutter until the sound drops as they finish popping. Add the onion and cook until translucent and lightly coloured, then add the tomatoes with the turmeric and red chilli and cook until the tomatoes collapse and oil begins to separate at the edges of the mass, which tells you the raw taste is gone.
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5
This is where the dish lives or dies: reduce the heat to low, then pour the yoghurt-besan mixture into the pan slowly and stir constantly, because if the heat is too high or the stirring stops, the yoghurt will split and the sauce cannot be recovered. Cook on a gentle heat, stirring, for 4–5 minutes until the raw besan smell cooks out and the sauce thickens into a smooth, lightly golden body. Add ladlefuls of the reserved gatte cooking water to reach a consistency that coats a spoon but flows freely.
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6
Add the sliced gatte to the simmering sauce and allow them to cook in the curry for 5 minutes so the rounds absorb the sauce and the flavours move in both directions — the gatte take on the spicing while the sauce picks up the starchy warmth of the dumplings. The dish is ready when the sauce clings to each piece and the surface shows a faint slick of seasoned oil. Taste and adjust salt at this point, then serve.