Goan Cafreal — Green Herb Grilled Chicken (कॅफ्रियल)

Ingredients

• 1.2 kg chicken, on the bone, jointed into 8 pieces, skin scored deeply through to 1 cm into the flesh
• For the green masala paste
• 60 g fresh coriander, leaves and tender stems
• 20 g fresh mint, leaves picked
• 4–6 green chillies, adjust to heat preference; traditionally quite hot
• 30 g fresh ginger, peeled and roughly chopped
• 8 cloves garlic, peeled
• 1 tsp cumin seeds
• 4 cloves, whole
• 1 cinnamon stick, approximately 2 cm
• 45 ml lime juice, freshly squeezed; plus extra wedges to finish
• To serve
• 2 white onions, thinly sliced
• 4 lime wedges
• 4 Goan poie, or similar crusty bread

Method

1. 1
   Combine the coriander, mint, green chillies, ginger, garlic, cumin, cloves, and cinnamon in a wet grinder or heavy blender with the lime juice, then grind to a very smooth, thick paste — the paste must be dense enough to coat and adhere to the chicken, so if it threatens to become watery, add no additional liquid. A loose paste will slide off the chicken during grilling rather than forming the crust that carries all the flavour. The paste is ready when it is completely smooth and holds its shape on a spoon without running.
2. 2
   Score each chicken piece deeply through the skin and 1 cm into the flesh at intervals of roughly 2 cm, so the paste can reach the muscle rather than sitting only on the surface and burning away before the chicken is cooked through. Rub the green masala paste thoroughly into the scores, under any loose skin, and over all surfaces, then cover and refrigerate for a minimum of 4 hours, preferably 12. The chicken is ready to cook when the paste has visibly darkened into the scored flesh and the aroma of the herbs has fully permeated the surface.
3. 3
   This is where the dish lives or dies: heat a heavy griddle pan or grill to the highest possible heat, because only fierce heat will scorch the herb paste into a fragrant, slightly blackened crust rather than letting it stew and turn dull. Place the chicken pieces skin-side down without crowding, so each piece sits directly on the hot surface and colours deeply rather than steaming in its neighbours' moisture. Turn once; the paste should be visibly blackened in places and the skin deeply coloured — a pale, uncharred surface means the heat is insufficient and the defining smoky note will be absent.
4. 4
   Continue cooking on the second side, keeping the heat high so the crust firms rather than softens, until the juices run clear when the thickest piece is pierced at its deepest score. The flesh at the bone should show no pink and a skewer should meet no resistance at the joint. These are the only reliable signs that the chicken is done all the way through, where the scores are deepest.
5. 5
   Transfer to a serving board and squeeze fresh lime juice over the finished pieces immediately, so the acid cuts through the char and lifts the herbaceous notes just before the chicken reaches the table. Serve with sliced onion, lime wedges, and Goan poie.