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1
Halve the goya lengthwise and scoop out all seeds and white pith — these are the primary sources of the most intense bitterness. Slice the flesh thinly crosswise. Place in a bowl, add the salt, rub vigorously, and leave for 10 minutes. Rinse under cold water and squeeze firmly in both hands to expel moisture. The slices should retain a pronounced bitterness; if they have become bland, the rubbing has gone too far.
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2
Press the firm tofu under a weighted board until it yields no further visible moisture. Cut into rough cubes approximately 2 cm. Heat the oil in a wide pan over high heat and fry the tofu cubes, turning, until a gold surface has formed on all sides. This crust is what prevents the tofu from becoming waterlogged when the remaining components are added — the dish lives or dies at this point.
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3
Add the Spam batons to the pan and cook alongside the tofu until the cut faces show colour. The fat rendered from the Spam bastes the other ingredients.
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4
Add the prepared goya slices and stir-fry over high heat. Pour in the dashi and soy sauce. Toss to combine. Cook until the goya has softened but retains a slight resistance and its vivid green colour is still present.
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5
Pour the beaten egg around and over the contents of the pan. Leave undisturbed for a few seconds until the egg begins to set at the edges, then turn loosely once or twice. Remove from the heat while the egg is still soft — it will continue to set from the residual heat of the pan.
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6
Transfer to a serving plate and scatter katsuobushi flakes over the surface immediately. The flakes will lift and tremble from the residual heat — this is the canonical finish, confirming the dish is hot enough to serve.