Gōyā Chanpurū — Okinawa's Bitter Melon Stir-Fry (ゴーヤーチャンプルー)

Ingredients

• 1 (approx. 250 g) Gōyā (bitter melon), halved lengthwise, seeds and pith scraped out, sliced into 4–5 mm crescents
• 300 g Firm tofu, pressed and dried before cooking
• 200 g Canned pork or Spam, sliced or cut into batons
• 3 Eggs, lightly beaten
• 1 tsp Fine salt, for salting the bitter melon; used sparingly
• 1 tbsp Lard or neutral oil
• 1 tsp Dashi powder
• 1 tbsp Soy sauce, added at the end of cooking
• 5 g Katsuobushi (bonito flakes), sprinkled over the finished dish

Method

1. 1
   Halve the gōyā lengthwise and scrape out all seeds and white pith with a spoon. Slice crosswise into crescents of 4–5 mm. Toss with the fine salt and leave for 5 minutes, then wring firmly in a clean cloth to expel moisture and reduce bitterness. The melon should feel compressed but still hold its shape.
2. 2
   Press the firm tofu between two flat surfaces weighted for at least 10 minutes, then pat dry with paper. It must be as dry as possible before it meets the wok; a damp surface will cause violent spattering and prevent any colour forming.
3. 3
   Set the wok over the highest available heat until it begins to smoke. Add the lard or neutral oil and immediately lay in the sliced canned pork or Spam in a single layer. Fry without moving until the pieces show deep golden colour on at least one face and the fat has begun to render — the wok should spit and smell of caramelising meat.
4. 4
   This is where the dish lives or dies. Maintain fierce heat throughout — add the pressed tofu broken into rough large pieces and leave it undisturbed long enough to take a golden-brown crust on each side. If the heat drops, the tofu will steam in its own moisture and the dish will be sodden rather than stir-fried. The correct sound is a continuous aggressive sizzle; silence means the heat has been lost.
5. 5
   Add the wrung gōyā crescents to the wok and toss everything together over high heat. The melon should cook only briefly — it must retain a distinct crunch when pressed between finger and thumb. Overcooking eliminates both its texture and its defining medicinal bitterness.
6. 6
   Scatter in the dashi powder and pour the soy sauce around the edge of the wok so it hits the hot metal and reduces instantly. Toss to coat. Taste before adding any further salt — the canned pork carries considerable sodium already.
7. 7
   Pour the beaten eggs evenly over the contents of the wok. Allow them to set at the edges for a few seconds, then fold gently through the other ingredients once or twice. Remove from the heat while the egg still appears just underdone; residual heat will carry it to barely set. The egg should be glossy and soft, not dry.
8. 8
   Transfer immediately to a serving plate and scatter the katsuobushi over the surface. The flakes will tremble and curl in the dish's rising heat. Serve without delay.