Homard à l'Américaine — Lobster in Tomato, Brandy, and Tarragon Sauce

Ingredients

• 2 live lobsters, approximately 700 g each
• 60 ml Cognac
• 60 ml olive oil, for sautéeing
• 300 g tomato concassée, fresh tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and roughly chopped
• 200 ml dry white wine
• 200 ml fish fumet
• 2 shallots, finely minced
• 2 garlic cloves, finely minced
• 1 bouquet garni
• 1 pinch cayenne pepper
• For the liaison
• 30 g unsalted butter, softened
• 20 g unsalted butter, cold, cut into small pieces
• 1 quantity tomalley and coral, reserved from the lobsters
• 1 small bunch fresh tarragon, leaves only
• To serve
• 4 portions rice pilaf, prepared separately

Method

1. 1
   Dispatch each lobster with a swift, firm knife thrust through the cross behind the head. Section the lobsters raw: separate the claws, cut the tail through the shell into 5–6 medallions, and split the head in half lengthwise. Reserve all tomalley and coral in a small bowl. Season the pieces.
2. 2
   Heat the olive oil in a wide, heavy sauté pan to 210 °C — the surface will shimmer and the first wisp of smoke will appear. Add the lobster pieces in a single layer and sauté for 2–3 minutes, turning once. The dish lives or dies here: the shells must turn a vivid, uniform scarlet and the exposed flesh must show a firm, white edge before the liquid enters the pan; underdone at this stage, the sauce will lack its essential depth.
3. 3
   Pour the Cognac over the lobster pieces. Tilt the pan toward the flame or touch a lit match to the vapour at the pan's edge and stand clear. Allow the flames to subside completely — the brandy is spent when the fire dies of its own accord and the sharp alcohol smell gives way to a sweet, caramelised fragrance.
4. 4
   Add the minced shallots and garlic to the pan and cook for 1 minute, stirring, until softened and translucent but not coloured.
5. 5
   Add the dry white wine, fish fumet, tomato concassée, bouquet garni, and cayenne. Bring to a gentle simmer, cover, and braise for 15–18 minutes. The lobster medallions are done when they yield with slight resistance to light finger pressure through the shell.
6. 6
   Lift the lobster pieces from the pan. Extract the tail meat and crack the claws to remove the meat intact. Set aside, covered, in a warm place.
7. 7
   Discard the bouquet garni. Reduce the braising liquid over moderate heat until it has halved in volume — it will coat a spoon lightly and deepen in colour.
8. 8
   Remove the pan from the heat entirely. Mash the reserved tomalley and coral with the 30 g of softened butter to a smooth paste and whisk it into the hot sauce in one motion. Follow immediately with the 20 g of cold butter, piece by piece, swirling to emulsify. The sauce must not return to a boil — if it does, the liver proteins will turn grainy and bitter. The finished sauce is glossy and just thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.
9. 9
   Scatter the fresh tarragon leaves into the sauce. Return the lobster meat to the pan and turn gently to coat. Serve immediately in deep, warmed plates alongside rice pilaf.