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1
Place the lamb joints in a pot and cover with cold water. Bring to the boil over high heat. Skim the grey foam that rises to the surface until the broth runs clear.
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2
Add salt to the broth. Reduce to a steady simmer — the surface should tremble, not roll. The method is nothing but water, salt, and heat: this is where the dish lives or dies, and where every quality and flaw of the animal is made plain. Cook until the meat is just done — yielding when pressed, pulling cleanly from the bone without falling from it.
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3
Lift the joints from the broth and rest briefly. Reserve the cooking broth and ladle it into bowls alongside the meat.
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4
If preparing the optional dipping sauce, combine the garlic, chilli, and coriander. Serve separately; the sauce is an accompaniment, not a correction.
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5
Bring the whole joints to the table and eat with bare hands, using a small knife to cut portions as needed. The meat should be moist, clean in flavour, and faintly mineral. The broth is drunk from the bowl.