Japanese Abura-Age and Inari-Zushi: Fried Tofu Pouches, Fox Mythology, and Sushi Without Fish

Ingredients

• For the abura-age
• 600 g firm tofu, pressed to remove excess moisture
• 1 litre neutral oil, for deep-frying
• For the braising liquid
• 300 ml dashi
• 60 ml soy sauce
• 60 ml mirin
• 3 tbsp sugar, braising liquid should be noticeably sweeter than standard nimono
• For the shari (sushi rice)
• 360 g short-grain Japanese rice, uncooked weight
• 60 ml rice vinegar
• 1 tbsp sugar
• 1 tsp salt
• For the garnish
• 2 tsp toasted sesame seeds, or mix with finely shredded nori

Method

1. 1
   Wrap the pressed tofu in several layers of absorbent paper or clean cloth and weight it for at least 30 minutes. The tofu must be as dry as the surface will allow — any remaining excess moisture causes violent oil splashing and prevents uniform puffing. The tofu is ready when the paper shows no further wet transfer.
2. 2
   Cut the pressed tofu into rectangular slabs sized to yield pouches of approximately 8 × 5 cm when halved after frying. Heat the frying oil in a deep, heavy vessel to 140–150 °C. Lower the tofu pieces in carefully and fry at this temperature, maintaining the range, until cooked through but without colour — the pieces will be pale and slightly swollen. Remove and drain on absorbent paper.
3. 3
   Raise the oil temperature to 180–190 °C. Return the par-fried tofu pieces to the oil. The interior moisture, now converting rapidly to steam, expands the structure: the pieces puff visibly and the exterior seals to a crisp, golden shell. This is where the dish lives or dies — a single frying temperature cannot build the hollow interior; the two-stage process is the mechanism by which the pouch is formed. Remove when deeply golden and hollow when pressed lightly. Drain and press immediately in absorbent paper to remove excess oil.
4. 4
   Combine the dashi, soy sauce, mirin, and sugar in a wide shallow pan and bring to a simmer. Add the drained abura-age pouches and braise over medium-low heat, turning occasionally, until the liquid is largely absorbed and the pouches are deeply coloured, glossy, and sweet-savoury throughout. The braising liquid for inari should be noticeably sweeter than standard nimono. Remove and leave to cool to handling temperature.
5. 5
   Season the cooked short-grain rice with the rice vinegar, sugar, and salt, folding with a wooden paddle while fanning to cool. The shari should be slightly warm — not hot, not cold — when used for stuffing; at this temperature it holds its shape and packs cleanly.
6. 6
   Cut each braised abura-age in half to yield two pouches per piece. From the cut end, gently separate the two layers with the fingers to open the interior pocket. Work with patience; do not tear — a torn pouch cannot be attractively presented. The pouch is ready when it opens to a clean, even cavity.
7. 7
   Moisten the hands lightly with water. Take a small, compact portion of shari and ease it into the open pouch, pressing gently and evenly to fill without straining the seams. The rice should fill the pouch fully but not force the edges apart — over-stuffing breaks the seam and loses the shape. Fold the open end under and place seam-side down. Scatter toasted sesame seeds over the surface to finish.