Exit cook Japanese Ankimo Tofu: Monkfish Liver Processing and the 'Foie Gras of the Sea'
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Japanese Ankimo Tofu: Monkfish Liver Processing and the 'Foie Gras of the Sea'

Step 1 of 7 ·
Serves 4

Ingredients

· · ·

Method

  1. 1
    Lay the monkfish liver flat on a clean board. Using fingertips and, where necessary, tweezers or the tip of a small knife, trace and pull out the entire network of fine blood vessels running through the liver. Work methodically from the thickest lobe outward. The liver is ready when no dark vessel lines remain visible and the flesh is uniformly pale.
  2. 2
    Sprinkle the fine salt evenly over the cleaned liver and massage gently with both hands for one to two minutes, working the salt into the surface. Place the liver in a colander or on a rack over a bowl and leave at room temperature for fifteen minutes; a small quantity of blood will be drawn to the surface. Transfer the liver to a bowl of cold water and soak for thirty minutes, changing the water once. The water should run nearly clear and the liver surface should appear pale and cream-coloured.
  3. 3
    Remove the liver from the cold water and pat dry with paper towel. Lay a sheet of plastic wrap flat on the work surface. Place the liver along the near edge and roll it into a tight, compact cylinder, twisting the ends of the wrap firmly to consolidate the shape. If using a bamboo makisu, wrap the cylinder in the mat and roll to tighten further. The cylinder should feel dense and hold its round form without slack.
  4. 4
    Bring a steamer to a stable temperature of approximately 80°C — a gentle, steady steam with no vigorous boiling. Place the wrapped cylinder in the steamer basket and steam for approximately twenty to twenty-five minutes. The liver is done when it feels uniformly firm with no soft, yielding centre when pressed gently through the wrap; it should yield like a set custard, not spring back as raw flesh does.
  5. 5
    Remove the cylinder from the steamer and allow it to cool to room temperature in its wrapping, then refrigerate for a minimum of four hours and ideally overnight. The cylinder is ready to slice when it is cold throughout and holds its shape firmly when unwrapped — a cylinder that still carries warmth at the centre will collapse under the knife.
  6. 6
    Unwrap the chilled cylinder on a cold board. Using a sharp, thin-bladed knife, cut cleanly across the cylinder into rounds of approximately 1 cm. Each round should hold its circular form, present a smooth, uniform cross-section of pale cream-coloured liver, and show no crumbling at the cut edge.
  7. 7
    Arrange one to two rounds per portion on a cold plate. Spoon ponzu around or alongside the rounds. Add a small mound of grated daikon oroshi, a pinch of sliced green onion, and a light dusting of ichimi togarashi. Serve immediately, while the plate and liver are cold. The nose at the table should carry a clean oceanic depth with the sharp citrus lift of the ponzu.
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HACCP Brief — Codex Alimentarius CXC 1-1969 Japanese Ankimo Tofu: Monkfish Liver Processing and the 'Foie Gras of the Sea'
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