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1
Combine the agar powder and water in a heavy saucepan. Bring slowly to 90–95°C, stirring continuously, until the agar is completely dissolved — no visible granules remain and the liquid is fully clear. This stage is critical: partially dissolved agar will produce a grainy texture in the finished block.
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2
Add the caster sugar to the dissolved agar solution and stir until fully incorporated. Maintain the temperature at 90–95°C throughout — do not allow the mixture to exceed 95°C or drop below 90°C at this stage.
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3
Remove the pan from direct heat. Allow the solution to cool slightly so that it no longer exceeds 90°C before adding the koshi-an. This is where the yokan lives or dies: if the agar solution is above 90°C when the anko is introduced, the residual heat breaks down the bean protein structure and the mixture separates; if it drops below 40°C before moulding is complete, the agar begins to gel in the pan and the block will not form cleanly. Fold the koshi-an into the agar-sugar solution in a steady, even motion until the mixture is perfectly homogeneous — no streaks of bean paste, no pockets of clear gel.
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4
For musha-yokan only: distribute the whole cooked chestnuts through the mixture at this point, stirring gently once so they are evenly suspended. They should remain visible and whole when the block is sliced.
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5
Pour the mixture immediately into a rectangular mould (yokan-bou form), lightly dampened with cold water. Work quickly: agar sets at 35–40°C and the operational window is narrow. Tap the mould lightly on the work surface to level the surface and expel any air pockets. The surface should be smooth and flat — no rippling or trapped bubbles.
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6
Allow the yokan to set at room temperature until firm, then refrigerate for a minimum of 48 hours. Aged yokan (hiyashi yokan) develops a firmer texture and deeper flavour than freshly set yokan. The block is ready when it holds a perfectly clean edge under a moistened knife — the cut face should be smooth, dense, and without drag.
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7
Unmould the block and slice with a moistened knife into precise geometric pieces. The firmness of correctly made neri-yokan allows clean, sharp edges. Wipe and re-moisten the blade between cuts. Serve in small portions alongside bitter matcha.