Japanese Goma Dofu Sesame Tofu of Shōjin Cuisine

Ingredients

• 45 g Yoshino kuzu starch, pure, unblended; sifted of any lumps
• 80 g neri-goma (sesame paste), well-stirred from the base of the jar to reincorporate the oil
• 300 ml cold water, measured precisely; ratio determines final texture
• To serve
• 2 tsp wasabi, freshly grated or reconstituted from powder
• 30 ml shoyu, poured at table
• For the white miso sauce (shiro miso tare — optional)
• 60 g shiro miso (white miso)
• 20 ml mirin
• 30 ml dashi, kombu dashi for shōjin compliance
• 10 ml sake

Method

1. 1
   Combine the kuzu starch, neri-goma, and cold water in a heavy-based saucepan. Whisk until fully smooth and no lumps of kuzu remain. The liquid will appear pale, slightly opaque, and uniform — any visible undissolved starch must be worked out before heat is applied.
2. 2
   Set the pan over moderate heat. Begin stirring immediately with a flat-edged wooden spatula or silicone scraper, working the entire base and sides of the pan in continuous, methodical strokes. Do not pause stirring at any point for the duration of cooking — 20 to 40 minutes. High heat is not used; the goal is slow, even thickening. This is where the dish lives or dies: a single pause allows the starch to seize in uneven masses that cannot be smoothed once set; uneven heat sets the outer layers before the centre is cooked through.
3. 3
   Continue stirring as the mixture progresses through several stages: first thinning slightly as the starch begins to hydrate, then thickening steadily into a smooth, glossy, dense paste. The raw starchy smell dissipates and is replaced by a warm, concentrated sesame aroma — this signals that the starch is fully cooked.
4. 4
   Test for doneness: lift the spatula and allow the mixture to fall back into the pan. It should descend in thick, slow ribbons and hold its shape briefly on the surface before collapsing back. If it flows freely, continue cooking and stirring. When the ribbon test is met, remove the pan from the heat.
5. 5
   Rinse a square mould with cold water; do not dry it. Pour the hot mixture directly into the damp mould and smooth the surface with a wet spatula. Allow to cool at room temperature until no longer steaming, then refrigerate. The block is set when it is firm to a gentle press at the centre — cool, dense, and unyielding to the touch.
6. 6
   If preparing the shiro miso tare, combine the white miso, mirin, dashi, and sake in a small saucepan over low heat. Stir until smooth and just warmed through — the sauce should coat a spoon lightly. Do not boil. Remove and cool.
7. 7
   Unmould the chilled goma-dōfu and cut into four equal blocks with a clean, wet knife. Serve at 8–12°C — cold enough to be firm and cool against the palate, but not so cold that sesame aroma is suppressed. Accompany with a small mound of wasabi and shoyu, or the shiro miso tare in place of shoyu.